As we bid farewell to the vibrant landscapes of the Top End, we journeyed southward toward our next adventure. Little Roper Stock Camp, renowned for its legendary Johnny Cakes, was a stop we eagerly anticipated. Owned by Des and Telka, this charming rustic farm nestled in Mataranka offers the perfect base to explore Mataranka and Bitter Thermal Springs. After a restful night at a free campsite steeped in history as a WWII Stirling Mill site, we awoke early, motivated by the promise of a delicious breakfast. At 7am each morning, the hosts light a fire and serve billy tea alongside their freshly baked Johnny Cakes, available for just $2 each, complemented by unlimited tea and an array of delectable spreads. This was the perfect way to start the day, Glen and I chatting with other travellers (including seeing our friends the Denises again) while Oliver and Lily played on the hay bales and ran around the farm meeting the animals including the friendly dogs, calves, piglets, buffalo and chooks. We hardly saw the kids as they spent hours playing with their friends on the hay bales and making things out of sticks, such as bows and arrows. After breakfast, it was time for the reptile show. The kids learnt about the different reptiles Des had collected over the years and thoroughly enjoyed holding blue tongued lizards, snakes, turtles and the gentle 3-metre-long Olive Python named Parrot.

Settling beside grazing cows, we embarked on our exploration of Mataranka Thermal Springs. A brief walk revealed a serene pool of crystal-clear blue water amidst palm and paperbark trees, inviting us for a relaxing 34-degree soak. After lunch, alongside the Denises, our exploration continued to Bitter Springs—a blissful experience of drifting downstream in the warm water, repeating the journey over and over. The kids thrilled in spotting turtles beneath the pristine surface. Returning as the sun set, we joined the feast of Curry Night, savouring half a dozen mouthwatering curries featuring mostly veggies and buffalo meat—pure scrumptiousness (I was so busy eating I forgot to take a photo)! Later, we ventured into town for an exhilarating whip show by Nathan “Whippy” Griggs, Australia’s premier whip-cracking entertainer, and five-time Guinness World Record holder, mesmerized by the fiery spectacle and witty humour. Inspired by the night, we left with a newly acquired whip, which Ollie enthusiastically showcased whenever possible.

Our adventure continued the next day, commencing naturally with more Johnny Cakes, and acquiring freshly baked bread before heading south to Daly Waters, a quaint spot just under two hours away. The moment you pull up at the iconic Daly Waters Pub you feel like you have stepped back in time. Upon entering the pub, we noticed that the ceiling and walls were covered with a variety of souvenirs left by visitors including stickers, photos, bras, business cards, currency from around the world, hats, clothing, shoes, etc. Lily even spotted an Elf on the Shelf hanging from someone’s unmentionables! Parking our van in a sardine-like row, we crossed to Tim’s Junkyard, intrigued by Tim’s 30-year collection of vintage cars, bikes, motors, WWII artifacts, cash registers, and random items. Following a brisk swim in an icy pool, we basked in the buzzing atmosphere of the beer garden, enjoying live music with delightfully grilled Barra, part of their famed Beef ‘n’ Barra BBQ. Back on the road, we aimed to visit the Devils Marbles (Karlu Karlu), a striking geological and cultural site celebrated for its round boulders scattered across the valley. After Daly Waters’ lively setting, the tranquillity of bush camping was a welcome change. Arriving late afternoon, we faced a surprising chill, unlike any we’d felt in months, layering up before wandering through the valley, uncovering dreamtime lore tied to the site, and witnessing the mesmerizing play of sunset hues on the boulders.

With our time swiftly slipping away, we made a two-night stop in Alice Springs. After an arduous drive, we reached our destination late in the afternoon. We stocked up on groceries and warmer clothing thanks to a quick visit to Kmart, then crossed the road from our caravan park to enjoy a meal at the local Brewery.

The next morning, we awoke early, eager to catch a glimpse of the iconic Finke Desert Race. This legendary two-day off-road endurance race, held annually in Alice Springs, features competitors racing cars, bikes, buggies, and quads across a rugged 460km course. To our good fortune, our visit coincided with the event, allowing us to stand trackside and watch as a few trophy trucks roared around the corner—a thrilling experience we hadn’t planned for.

Drawn by the allure of the MacDonnell Ranges, we decided to explore the West Macs for the day, particularly its gorges. After a scenic drive, we arrived at Ellery Creek Big Hole, a charming spot where we settled in for a picnic lunch amidst the stunning scenery. Although the chill kept us from swimming, we embraced the new climate by embarking on a 3km walk to Serpentine Gorge and its lookout. The gorge exuded a serene beauty, while the lookout rewarded our efforts with a breathtaking 360-degree panoramic view.

As the day waned, we made a stop at Simpsons Gap to admire the towering cliffs above its waterhole. Pleased with the decision to explore the West Macs, we returned to the caravan park just in time for dinner. The park buzzed with excitement as fellow travellers returned from the Finke Desert Race’s finish line, providing the kids with the perfect opportunity to admire the trophy trucks and bikes up close.

We concluded our adventurous day by attending an astronomy talk, revelling in a stargazing session where we had the fortune to view an almost full moon through a telescope. Exhausted yet exhilarated by the day’s experiences, we rested, eagerly looking forward to the journey to Kings Canyon the following day.