Family Adventures on the Open Road
We left Uluru and set our sights on Coober Pedy. With 733km between us, we chose to break the journey over two days, opting for a free camp a few hours north. Once there, Ollie practiced his whip cracking while Lily collected wood and started a fire all by herself. She claimed it was because she was cold, but I suspect it was more about toasting marshmallows. That evening was delightful; we enjoyed the fire, and the kids got a dance party going with some music.
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We departed Alice Springs with Kings Canyon as our destination, contemplating two routes: a five-and-a-half-hour journey on paved roads or a shorter three-and-a-half-hour trip featuring a 100 km stretch of unsealed road (Ernest Giles Track). We chose the latter, and although the drive was mostly smooth, a particular section near the end was as challenging as the Gibb River Road. Upon arriving at the campground, we set up and indulged in a sunset exploration of the area. The views of the mountains surrounding Kings Canyon were breathtaking as the sky transformed into a canvas of colours, fuelling our excitement for the next day’s adventures. That night, we tested our van’s diesel heater, and it kept us cozy without a hitch.
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As we bid farewell to the vibrant landscapes of the Top End, we journeyed southward toward our next adventure. Little Roper Stock Camp, renowned for its legendary Johnny Cakes, was a stop we eagerly anticipated. Owned by Des and Telka, this charming rustic farm nestled in Mataranka offers the perfect base to explore Mataranka and Bitter Thermal Springs. After a restful night at a free campsite steeped in history as a WWII Stirling Mill site, we awoke early, motivated by the promise of a delicious breakfast. At 7am each morning, the hosts light a fire and serve billy tea alongside their freshly baked Johnny Cakes, available for just $2 each, complemented by unlimited tea and an array of delectable spreads. This was the perfect way to start the day, Glen and I chatting with other travellers (including seeing our friends the Denises again) while Oliver and Lily played on the hay bales and ran around the farm meeting the animals including the friendly dogs, calves, piglets, buffalo and chooks. We hardly saw the kids as they spent hours playing with their friends on the hay bales and making things out of sticks, such as bows and arrows. After breakfast, it was time for the reptile show. The kids learnt about the different reptiles Des had collected over the years and thoroughly enjoyed holding blue tongued lizards, snakes, turtles and the gentle 3-metre-long Olive Python named Parrot.
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After departing from Darwin, our next adventure led us to the enchanting Litchfield National Park. En route, we paused at Berry Springs—a delightful natural hot spring located just 40 minutes outside Darwin. Several swimming areas awaited us, but we initially gravitated towards the warmest source where the heated water merges into a creek that feeds the other pools. A gentle waterfall offered soothing warm waters, perfect for a relaxing swim. Later, Robyn and the kids embarked on a leisurely float downstream through lush foliage, emerging at the largest swim area. Although cooler, it was nonetheless refreshing.
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Leaving Lake Argyle, we swiftly crossed into the Northern Territory where two immediate changes caught our attention: the speed limit increased to 130 km/h, and the road quality noticeably deteriorated. This combination wasn’t ideal, so we maintained our usual lower towing speeds and continued our journey. Initially, we planned to stop an hour short of Katherine at a free campsite, but as the afternoon slipped away, we decided to stop earlier to avoid night driving. When we arrived at our new spot, we noticed a car departing after initiating a controlled burn. Assuming it would remain small, we were soon joined by the Deuchars, and given that Grant is a firefighter, he advised us that it seemed ok but just in case we opted for a quick dinner before driving a bit further to a safer campsite, which everyone agreed was a good idea. We settled in for the night, enjoying a good chat once the kids were asleep.
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Back on the main road, we embarked on our journey towards Purnululu National Park, renowned for the breathtaking Bungle Bungle Range. We had heard from friends that the road leading into the park was both lengthy and quite rugged, so we opted to free camp just outside the entrance, leaving our caravan behind to explore the park in one adventurous day. As we settled into camp, slightly off the main highway alongside a few other caravans, the children gathered firewood with the hope of assembling a cozy campfire. Lily and I whipped up some damper, which we relished as dessert, accompanied by butter and jam.
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Embarking on the Gibb River Road, nestled in the heart of the Kimberley, is a journey that promises adventure and allure. The Gibb River Road is 660km in length, between Derby and Kununurra. The majority of the road is gravel and the condition is dependent upon the previous wet season, traffic and the last time a grader repaired, knowing this Ollie bought a sticker that claimed there was 1 million bumps to go. We had heard tales of its rugged terrain and were initially hesitant to undertake the journey, but we had also heard how great it was so were hoping it would open. As opening dates often stretch from late May to early June, we diligently monitored its status. Fortunately, a mild wet season blessed us with early access and we made the final decision to go for it. Departing the Dampier Peninsula, our first destination was Derby—the road’s official gateway—where we replenished supplies, knowing there’d be scant opportunities along the way. Luck was on our side at Woolworths, where we snagged bargains galore, from BBQ chickens at $2 each to an array of delightful goodies, culminating in a dinner cost of less than $4.
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From Broome, we headed north to the Dampier Peninsula, where a striking contrast of pindan cliffs, white sandy beaches, and clear turquoise waters creates the perfect backdrop for a unique cultural and coastal adventure. We chose to base ourselves at Pender Bay, which is on land managed by a local custodian. Although he had closed the area for all of May for maintenance work, he kindly allowed us to stay there. The road in was fairly short, but due to the corrugations and large bumpy sections, it took much longer than we had anticipated. By taking it slowly, we arrived in one piece and were rewarded for our efforts with a campsite right on the cliffs overlooking one of the most breathtaking locations we had seen on our trip. Since it was closed, we practically had the place all to ourselves apart from two other vans.
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We set off from Karijini and headed for Port Hedland. As we made our way out, a dingo gracefully crossed the road right in front of us—the first one we had seen on our trip. It was a decent drive, which we had decided to do a day early instead of having to wake up at 5 in the morning to get to Port Hedland Ford to have the car serviced. This extra day also gave us the chance to vote early, instead of having to wait around for the day.
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After one last, refreshing swim in the inviting, warm waters at Mesa Campground’s beach, we reluctantly bid farewell to Cape Range National Park. We’ve unanimously decided that the enchanting Ningaloo Coast has become our favourite destination on the trip thus far. After a quick pit stop in Exmouth for groceries and to collect Oliver’s prize for the Easter colouring competition, we set our sights on our next destination—Bullara Station Stay. Bullara, a lively, working cattle station, offers visitors a genuine taste of the rugged Australian outback. Known for its rustic charm, we were lucky enough to arrive just in time for their famed burger night!
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