Tans in a Van

Family Adventures on the Open Road

Exploring the Top End

After departing from Darwin, our next adventure led us to the enchanting Litchfield National Park. En route, we paused at Berry Springs—a delightful natural hot spring located just 40 minutes outside Darwin. Several swimming areas awaited us, but we initially gravitated towards the warmest source where the heated water merges into a creek that feeds the other pools. A gentle waterfall offered soothing warm waters, perfect for a relaxing swim. Later, Robyn and the kids embarked on a leisurely float downstream through lush foliage, emerging at the largest swim area. Although cooler, it was nonetheless refreshing.

Our journey continued to Litchfield, sometimes referred to as “Little Kakadu” for its similar features nestled within a compact area. We set up camp at Wangi Falls Campground, ideally situated adjacent to the falls and the park’s largest waterhole. Just the day prior, the rangers had “removed” a 4.5-meter saltwater crocodile, allowing the area to reopen. We took a scenic loop walk around the falls; however, despite others swimming, we opted not to risk an unexpected encounter. Instead, we ventured to Florence Falls—a striking 15-meter falls plunging into a deep pool, perfect for swimming, albeit chilly. Our explorations then took us to Buley Holes, a sequence of cascading pools along a stream, where Oliver and Lily delighted in leaping into the pools repeatedly off some high rocks. As we returned to the campground, we witnessed several controlled burns throughout the park. You would think that it would be alarming to drive next to a burning forest, but it was quite interesting.

The following morning, we started early to visit Greenant Creek to Tjaetaba Falls, knowing it often attracts crowds. The walk itself was charming, with a distinct separation between lush rainforest and sparser landscape. We briefly ascended to the falls, pausing as the children gathered green ants, who wanted their sherbet-like taste upon biting their green backs. Our early arrival rewarded us with the tranquillity of deserted falls and pool areas, including an infinity pool at the waterfall’s edge, perfect for a serene soak. After a brief relaxation, we continued to The Cascades, undertaking our most strenuous hike of the park which led us to more refreshing pools. Following a light lunch, the children persuaded us to return to Buley Holes for a leisurely afternoon. That evening, they kids surprised us with a thoughtful dinner in the “Romance Hut,” preparing Chicken Sweetcorn Soup, rice, and vegetables entirely on their own, while Robyn and I enjoyed romantic music and a candlelit setting.

As we bade farewell to Litchfield, our next destination was Kakadu. On the way into the park, a Jumping Croc tour awaited. En route, a quick detour to Fogg Dam revealed a serene wetland with an observation hide for wildlife viewing. Although wildlife sightings were few, the adventure was invigorated by a 3-meter crocodile basking roadside, making the detour worthwhile. The croc tour delighted as we witnessed several crocodiles leap for food as well as seeing the two dominant males Brutus and Dominator, both exceeding six meters—a spectacle safely observed from behind sturdy bars. The kids were particularly excited to see Brutus as he is featured in their Guinness World record book.

Upon arriving in Jabiru, the heart of Kakadu, we settled in for a few days and explored Cahills Crossing, a renowned river crossing at Arnhem Land’s threshold, popular for crocodile sightings. What was really interesting though was we were there right on high tide so got to see the river flow one way, completely stop and then reverse back up stream, it was fascinating. Ubirr, a famed rock art site, impressed us with ancient creations, inspiring awe. As sunset approached, we lingered at the site’s highest point as we had been told it should be amazing. In the end it lived up to expectations. As the sun set, the sky turned to yellow and red. What made it even more special was another person there started to play the didgeridoo which made it even more magical. Our evening concluded with dinner adjacent to the campground pool and the kids were undeterred by its cold waters while we waiting for our meal to arrive.

A new day started with another swim before exploring additional rock art and a captivating lookout, showcasing works like the iconic “lightning man.” Our afternoon  included a Yellow Waters sunset cruise amidst wetland wonders. We had some time before hand so checked out the cultural centre which was filled with information and artefacts about aboriginal culture. The kids also tried to convince me that I should get a didgeridoo of my own, but they couldn’t make a compelling enough argument. The tour was set to depart from a resort so given we still had an hour before it left, we made use of the pool and bar which was great. We spent the next two hours cruising around spotting several bird species, crocs and plants and it was interesting to learn about the area. At one point, everyone was over one side of the boat looking at a croc which made it tilt and when Oliver accidentally dropped his sunglasses they hit the floor, slide along it and went right under the safety rail into the water! We now joke that there is a dolphin wearing his normal glasses in Bunbury and a croc wearing his sunglasses in the Yellow Waters wetland. Overall while the wildlife was a little underwhelming the sunset and the views were beautiful.

The following day we packed up and on the way out of Kakadu made one final stop at Boulder Creek falls. With all the recent rain and it being early in the season, a lot of things we had wanted to do were still closed. It was a short walk in and there were a couple of levels of pools for us to take a dip in. It was a great way to end out time in Kakadu before starting the long drive south.

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