Embarking on the Gibb River Road, nestled in the heart of the Kimberley, is a journey that promises adventure and allure. The Gibb River Road is 660km in length, between Derby and Kununurra. The majority of the road is gravel and the condition is dependent upon the previous wet season, traffic and the last time a grader repaired, knowing this Ollie bought a sticker that claimed there was 1 million bumps to go. We had heard tales of its rugged terrain and were initially hesitant to undertake the journey, but we had also heard how great it was so were hoping it would open. As opening dates often stretch from late May to early June, we diligently monitored its status. Fortunately, a mild wet season blessed us with early access and we made the final decision to go for it. Departing the Dampier Peninsula, our first destination was Derby—the road’s official gateway—where we replenished supplies, knowing there’d be scant opportunities along the way. Luck was on our side at Woolworths, where we snagged bargains galore, from BBQ chickens at $2 each to an array of delightful goodies, culminating in a dinner cost of less than $4.

Our adventure began with a stay at a permaculture farm just off the road. The initial greeting was a rough, corrugated trail that left us questioning our decision, but thankfully, it turned out to be one of the worst roads we would encounter on the Gibb.

The next morning, with renewed enthusiasm, we ventured onwards, leaving behind the rugged path for paved roads leading to Windjana Gorge. Here, we parked at a free campsite and embarked on exploration. The day’s heat tantalized us with thoughts of a swim at Windjana Gorge, but recent saltwater crocodile activity thwarted those plans. Instead, we enjoyed a brisk walk before continuing to Tunnel Creek—a unique underground cavern with a gentle creek and resident freshwater crocodiles, who thankfully ignored our presence, even as we swam across a section. The cave’s pitch darkness challenged us momentarily when two of our headlamps went flat, but the remaining headlamps safely guided us to the end and back. Rock art at both cave entrances capped off the experience for us. We were amazed at how brave the kids were – walking in a pitch black cave and then swimming in deep water, with the possibility of freshwater crocodiles.

Another day beckoned more road adventures, revisiting corrugations and free camping enroute to Bell Gorge. The fun ride included challenging corrugations and river crossings, with little more than a slightly bent license plate to show for our traversing. Bell Gorge rewarded us with a picturesque trek to a stunning waterfall cascading into a refreshing pool. Opting for an additional walk to the bottom unveiled breathtaking views, with the pool offering a blissful escape. The thrill of swimming into the falls and feeling the powerful water push us back into the pool was unforgettable. We then backtracked until we arrived back at the van in time for lovely sunset and one of the best stargazing opportunities of the trip.

Setting out the following morning, we soon arrived at Adcock Gorge. Thanks to the Morrises—who were traveling just ahead—we wisely left the van at the roadside, rather than navigating a gruelling trail suggested by Wikicamps. By taking it slow, we made it with no issues and were greeted with a delightful walk to a secluded waterfall, skipping swimming for opportunities later that day. Continuing our journey, we parked at Galvans Gorge, another brief stroll revealing one of our favourites on the Gibb—a tiered waterfall crowned by a perfectly positioned Boab tree. Swimming there was pure bliss, with the waterfall providing a soothing massage.

Our final destination of the day was Manning Gorge, where we camped for the night. A pit stop at Mount Barnett Roadhouse for burgers and chips offered a welcome respite from our customary sandwiches and wraps. Reunited with the Morrises alongside new acquaintances, the Dennises, we spent the afternoon swimming in the river, with the rope swing delighting the kids. Lily also spent a couple of hours fishing and caught at least 15 undersized spotted perch. She loved it though and did everything herself from baiting, casting, catching and releasing. Her confidence grew with each fish and the other kids even asked her to give them a go of holding and releasing the fish. That evening, around a cozy campfire, we toasted marshmallows and enjoyed Todd Morris’s impressive fire twirling and breathing show. He even taught the kids to twirl, much to their delight.

An early rise propelled us toward Manning Gorge on foot, beginning with a refreshing swim across the river, using a floating half barrel to keep our belongings dry. The picturesque path meandered through spinifex, leading us downhill and into the gorge, where rock scrambling unveiled the majestic waterfall—a gratifying reward for our trek. Manning Gorge offered the largest falls and swimming pool of our journey, allowing an idyllic morning spent basking in nature’s splendour. Returning to the campsite after lunch, the afternoon was enjoyed with the other families, once again at the rope swing from the day before and another, longer one that Todd had set up for the kids. The day wound down with an evening exploration, uncovering toads, spiders, snakes, and a tortoise—ending our day on a high note.

The following day was devoted primarily to travel. Unfortunately, it coincided with the worst section of road; yet, though slow and challenging including a lucky call where the jockey wheel on the van dropped down and got slightly bent but it was nothing that couldn’t be fixed easily. We pressed on until afternoon brought us to Ellenbrae Station for their renowned scones before settling in alongside the Dennises. Though scenic walks and two waterholes felt lacklustre compared to prior sights, it was still a great place to spend the night as Robyn and I shared the night chatting with Scott and Jess while the kids enjoyed an outdoor movie.

Rising early the next day (giving ourselves the best chance for low tide), we aimed for the Pentecost River—the Gibb’s final, greatest crossing. This tidal crossing is notorious; recent highs approached 600mm. Fortunately, our crossing, at 400mm, was stress-free. Relieved to be back on sealed roads, our last stop on the Gibb was El Questro Station. After the rustic journey, El Questro was a welcome haven boasting excellent amenities—a restaurant and bar with a delightful happy hour.

We spent three unforgettable days at El Questro, reunited with the Dennises and the Deuchars, delighting Ollie and Lily immensely. Having arrived early, we jumped right into the adventure, heading straight for Amalia Gorge. The 3-kilometer round-trip walk led us to a charming waterfall where, despite the chilly water, we couldn’t resist taking a refreshing dip. Back at camp, we joined the other families for happy hour, and the lively atmosphere quickly convinced us to skip cooking in favour of the delicious food on offer. As the kids played joyfully on the expansive lawn, the parents relished the chance to unwind.

The next morning, Oliver and Jethro set out to build a dirt jump for their bikes, which provided entertainment for hours over the following days. Later, we journeyed to Zebedee Springs with the Deuchars, relaxing for a few hours in the warm waters nestled amidst an enchanting oasis of native ferns and palms. It was a breathtaking spot, making it difficult to leave, but we had organised to meet the Dennises at El Questro Gorge so we had to head off. To get to the start of the walk, we had to do our deepest water crossing of the trip at 500mm, which we tackled with ease since the van wasn’t in tow. The walk through the gorge was spectacular, featuring the lush vegetation similar to Zebedee but on a grander scale, surrounded by towering gorge walls. At the halfway point lay a serene swimming pool, but most of us were eager to continue to the top falls. The start of this next bit was wading through water to climb up onto some boulders which proved tricky, however we were able to tackle it by working as a team. Once over the obstacle, the second half of the walk, more challenging yet rewarding, offered increasingly stunning scenery as the gorge walls narrowed. Climbing over one final waterfall and after some more scrambling, we reached the intimate, lovely falls. We swam and relaxed under the cascade before retracing our steps. The return journey was equally demanding, but we were lucky to see a snake on the hunt. That evening, we were tempted once more by happy hour, which included a fun trivia event, adding variety to the night.

Our last full day began with myself, Grant, and Scott waking at dawn to fish for Barramundi at the Pentecost River. Although the fish eluded us, it was a delightful excursion. Later, our three families visited Emma Gorge, the crown jewel of El Questro. The walk was brief, but the falls and swimming hole were breathtaking. The walls, covered in lush vegetation and moisture, created a magical ambiance. A natural hot spring on one side of the pool allowed us to warm up after braving the chilly water, providing the perfect finale to our exploration of the gorges.

The following morning we packed up and bade farewell to everyone as each family set off on new adventures. Choosing to explore the Gibb River Road proved to be an excellent decision, offering splendid vistas and cherished moments with newfound friends. As often said during our travels, this experience truly stood out as a highlight and may well be hard to surpass!