After a lot of relatively short drives after crossing the Nullarbor, the drive to Kalbarri from Sandy Cape was a much longer 4 hour trip. Initially, Google said it would be an even longer journey due to a fire blocking the freeway, but to our pleasant surprise the road had reopened that morning. Once we arrived in Kalbarri, we set up camp allowing the children to enjoy the pool while Robyn and I attended to some much-needed laundry. That evening, we prepared dinner in the camp kitchen and a fellow camper generously shared with us a couple dozen crayfish legs from his day’s haul of ten crayfish, having run out of space in his freezer. They remain in ours, eagerly awaiting to be cooked!

The following day, we embarked on an adventure to the region’s main attraction, Kalbarri National Park. Spanning over 186,000 hectares, the park is situated at the lower reaches of the Murchison River. It stands among the world’s top locations for discovering ancient traces of the first life on land and boasts stunning natural wonders in its inland gorges. We had been informed that the temperature in the park and its gorges could reach up to 10 degrees hotter, so we began with a walk to the Z Bend Lookout and River Trail. Our journey commenced with an easy trek to the Lookout, revealing breathtaking views of the gorges, before transitioning into a more challenging descent involving rock hopping and ladders to reach the river. Once there, we were captivated by the magnificent scenery, featuring crimson canyon walls and shallow swimming holes that we dipped our feet in. We spent a blissful hour relishing the natural beauty, nearly having the place to ourselves.

Afterward, we made our way to Nature’s Window, which frames the picturesque view of the Murchison River as it meanders through the ancient landscape. It’s one of Western Australia’s most iconic natural attractions, evidenced by the sizable crowds. A short drive away was our final destination in the park, the Kalbarri Skywalk. These 40-meter platforms extend over the gorge, offering panoramic vistas of the landscape below. Though Oliver attempted to persuade us to include The Loop Walk in our day’s itinerary, the 9 km track would not have been wise to undertake with temperatures nearing 40 degrees, especially not starting as late as recommended.

In the afternoon, we visited the Blue Holes, a popular local snorkelling spot that quickly revealed its allure upon entering the water. Protected clusters of small reefs lie just off the beach, offering us the best snorkelling experience thus far, with a myriad of fish in various species. For dinner, we opted for a local favourite, Finlay’s Brewery. The lively outdoor restaurant showcased a broad selection of beers, which I sampled with pleasure, even grabbing some to take with me.

Our final morning before heading to Monkey Mia was spent experiencing the cherished Pelican Feeding, a tradition held for over 50 years at the same location. Fortuitously, three pelicans arrived for their free meal, allowing us the delightful opportunity to toss fish for them to catch in their beaks. Although we could have easily lingered in Kalbarri longer, it was time to continue our journey.